Savoring Savannah

SAVORING SAVANNAH

The historic part of Savannah is comprised of 22 squares which are surrounded by gorgeous old mansions. The squares themselves are full of Live Oak trees covered with hanging Spanish moss and otherwise completed with pathways, benches and usually a fountain or statue. The squares make up a grid and all of the streets go straight parallel or perpendicular through with the exception of the actual squares themselves where the streets surround them. There are relatively few stop signs and even fewer street lights and although pedestrians are supposed to have the right-of-way nobody has told the drivers that bit of information. Because of all of the squares there are lots of blind corners where you can't see a car until it is about to hit you. And though Southerners have the reputation of not being a big hurry, they sure drive like they are. It also could be all of the tourists that are there visiting too.

Having said that, Savannah is a wonderful city to walk around in. I was surprised that a lot of people were driving from place to place because it would be almost as fast to get there on foot. One way in which Savannah and Berkeley are alike is in the number of parking tickets issued. I personally saw meter maids issuing dozens of tickets and saw people complaining when they saw one on their windshield.

In the historic part of Savannah there are numerous buildings scattered around that comprise the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) and so there were tons of young students milling about with big drawing pads and portfolios under their arms or in front of them in one of the squares where they were drawing the lovely trees or buildings. They lend a youthful air to an historic old city.

After a nice breakfast at my darling B&B with a friendly British family I bundled up in my coat and headed out. It was uncharacteristically cold and breezy; just the kind of weather I had been hoping for. I had my tourist map outlining all of the squares and points of interest and proceeded to walk the streets. It wasn't hard at all to imagine scenes from THE book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. The book is available all over town and has made quite a splash. The Mercer house in which the movie/book is centered is located just around the corner from where I was staying. It has been open to the public for tours for the past year and a half, but the current owner, Jim Williams sister, absolutely will not speak of him or of "the incident." Of course this is exactly what all of the tourists want to talk about. But apparently Jim and his sister didn't get along at all and he left the house to his mother when he died. Upon the death of his mother his sister inherited the property even though he never wanted her to have it.

I entered a shop on Bull Street which lies in the dead center of town. There was a sign for walking tours of the city as well as the widely publicized trolley tours. It was a fun shop with great cards and gifts. I spoke with the owner about the walking tour and he said he highly recommended it and not just because it was his friend who led the tour, but because she would really give you the scoop on the town. It turns out that he went to UC Berkeley back in the late sixties and he was the one who opened the GAP on Telegraph. We had a good time reminiscing about Berkeley and I told him that I would be back at 2:00 for the tour.

Even though it was only 11:30, I went to the restaurant Lady and Sons and saw a huge line formed outside. I found out the wait was about 45 minutes which was perfect for me. Lady and Sons, as you might imagine, is a family run restaurant featuring southern cooking. It is somewhat of a tourist attraction as well and outgrew their old location and is now located in a big building with 2 floors of seating. And it obviously takes more than the family to run it. I decided to go for the buffet so that I could try a bunch of different southern specials. There was fried chicken and fried pork chops, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, butter beans, turnip greens, okra with stewed tomatoes, creamed corn and much more. Most of the foods fall into the white or brown food category. The waiters come by with fried corn cakes and light and fluffy cheese biscuits. The corn cake and biscuits were to die for. I liked most of the "veggies" even though we would never dream of cooking our vegetables like that in California. I t was fun to taste real southern cooking. I can see why they say there's nothing like it and how if they grew up on it that nothing else would satisfy them in the same way. Their cooking is all about comfort food and to quote the author of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil in his introduction to one of their many cook books, "It doesn't take an acquired taste, children love it from the first bite." Which I am sure is true, however it can be somewhat an acquired taste for a Californian who is more used to grilled or lightly sauteed vegetables and grilled or roasted chicken instead of battered and fried. I do agree that it isn't fussy food. And the price was right, $13 even for the meal. Not bad.

I followed up the rather heavy lunch (though I did leave a certain amount left on my plate) with the walking tour. It was a small group , only 5 of us. I guess most people choose to ride around on the trolleys. The guide was from Marin County but has lived in the South for a long time now. She does a good southern accent and when she referred to the locals she included herself, whether it was yesterday or 300 years ago. The tour was excellent and I really felt like I got to know the place and the people who have shaped its history.

She told us how the colony was started by Lord Oglethorpe (a big name in Savannah) who got permission from King Charles the 2nd to build in order to protect the other colonies from the threat of the Spanish who were in Florida and the islands. He was given a bunch of convicts from the prisons in and around London to populate the new colony. When they landed they were greeted by the local native American Chief and unlike many of the other colonies they were able to make peace with them because they were afraid of the Spanish as well. They agreed to fight for each other and in fact they did successfully fight off the Spanish in a battle in the early 1700's. It was the first and only time that Charleston won any battle on their land. They were completely occupied and taken over by the British in the Revolutionary War and couldn't defend themselves in the War between the States.

In the War of Northern Aggression (the Civil War) they knew that they lay directly in General Sherman's path and knew that he woukld destroy them and their city when he arrived. Their 10,000 troops were already fighting or dead from the war and they had no means to defend themselves. The one thing that they still had was their southern charm. So one savvy socialite sent an invitation to Sherman to be a guest in his house and to receive his hospitality. Sherman was so surprised by the offer that he accepted and stayed there for five weeks. He eventually granted permission to remove the blockade from the river which had cut off all of their supplies. Because his orders were to pillage and then burn everywhere they went he had to creatively concoct a way to get around this order to save the city that had provided him such hospitality. He instead wrote a letter to his supervisor saying that he was handing over Charleston to him as a gift and therefore it was saved from being burned to the ground. Or something along those lines.

Our guide also told us when Lord Ogelthorpe founded the new colony he gave them 5 rules to obey. First, they were not to own any slaves. Second, they were not to drink. Third, no lawyers. Fourth, no catholics (because they might be sympathetic to the Spanish Catholics down south). The first new people to arrive were a boatful of Catholics and since they had some skills and a doctor they let them stay. And I can't remember the fifth one at the moment. Most of the colonists were pretty unskilled and it was a hard to build a colony and farm and become a defense from the Spanish without "help" from the slaves, so they ended up "renting" or "borrowing " them until they completely gave up on following his rules. Brits without beer are not a happy lot, so they bought rum and beer from the pirates coming up the coast from the caribbean. They also were bitten by the mosquitos that came with the buccaneers and contracted yellow fever which sounds like a horrible way to go. No lawyers might sound like a nice idea, but then you just get people enacting their own revenge and that is a bit problematic.

She showed us some grave stone markers which read "shot by accident" or died from pneumonia. Apparently a lot of people were "shot by accident" many in the back of their heads, but that sounds a lot better than murdered by an angry spouse. If you say "shot by accident" with a sweet southern accent it doesn't really sounds so bad anyhow and it is so much more genteel. And since it was common to die from pneumonia it was a lot less distressing to relatives and friends to have that written on their graves than whatever grisly or unknown malady had really occurred.

We were also told about several ghosts who haunted the city. She told the stories about their lives and why they were still lingering around. There are lots of good ghost stories floating around. They do ghost tours in Savannah as well and if my guide were leading one I would have gone on it.

The next day I went to the cathedral, the art museum and on a house tour as well as out to the Bonadventure Cemetery, also mentioned in THE book. The cemetery was really pretty to walk around because of the trees and the sculptures on the graves. I went to the well-known and highly recommended Mrs. Wilkes' Boarding House for lunch. Everyone is seated at large tables and the food is presented and served family style. Many of the same dishes that I had seen at Lady and Sons the day before but I think her food was better. There were two empty seats at the end of our table and a woman sat down to join us. We asked if she wanted everything passed to her and she said she just wanted a few things within her reach and that she would ask for anything else. She introduced herself and it happens that she is the grand niece of Mrs. Wilkes and her husband was the man at the cash register and her son the host and her dad sitting in a chair at the bar behind us taking a snooze. She told us all about the history of the place. It was a kick to have her at our table.

Charming Charleston

CHARMING CHARLESTON

I have been to Charleston once before when I went with my brother Stephen when he was going there on a business trip. It was unbelievably hot and humid then and I thought I was going to get heat stroke. Luckily the weather was mild and pleasant this time around. It did rain the second day but not hard like it did in new York.

I wanted to go see a plantation and gardens so I took a bus tour out to Magnolia Plantation and Gardens. Our tour guide was a retired air force man who married a local Charleston ballerina. He looked like a goofy, gap toothed Leslie Neilson. He was always cracking jokes and looking in the rear view mirror as he drove us out to the plantation. Once we arrived he gave us a brief tour of the gardens and then we met for the 45 minute tram swamp tour. It was really interesting to cruise through the swamp and see the vegetation and the alligators that were sunning themselves on planks or peering at us from the water.

I am totally taken with the Live Oak trees dripping with Spanish moss. They are incredibly beautiful and moving. They have such a different feel than our live oaks in California that have mistletoe living off of them. The magnolias here are magnificent too but are not in bloom right now. Some of the Live Oaks have wisteria vines wound all through them and they must be amazing when they flower in the spring turning the tree lavender with their blooms. The plantation is known for its 1000+ types of camellias and azaleas. Some of the camellias were just starting to bloom but this isn't the best season to see the gardens.

There is a small farm with miniature ponies and cows and geese and other assorted farm animals grazing in a fenced area in the back of the front of the mansion faced the river as that was the primary mode of transportation to and from Charleston and beyond. We took a tour of the inside of the plantation house, the third on that site, the previous ones had been demolished by fire, the last one by General Sherman.

For California natives it is a bit strange to hear the Southerners refer to the Civil War as the War of Northern Aggression or "That recent unpleasantness" . It does seem to be considered recent history to them and is much more talked about then Iraq or more current conflicts in the Middle East. Every building has a story and history attached and there are many families who have lived in and owned the same property for 200-300 years. Anyone not from Charleston is considered from being "off" or of no real account socially. On the other hand, Charleston has been voted the "Most Courteous City" for the past 10 years and is the 3rd most visited city in the USA following New York and San Francisco. So everyone is really friendly to you just don't expect to become one of "them" even if you lived there for 50 years. I found that the people lived up to their reputation and I found them very hospitable.

Besides the ghost tour and the Magnolia Plantation Tour and the cooking class I took one other guided tour of the city. Unfortunately my guide was really into talking about the military history of the city which I can't help but tune out after a certain amount of time. I prefer hearing more about the people and the culture rather then all of the battles. I spent quite awhile on my own just wandering around the city taking pictures of the beautiful homes and churches and parks. The waterfront is really lovely to stroll along while gazing out at the islands and the military forts that protected them. Pat Conroy is one of my favorite authors and it was easy to imagine scenes from his books as I walked the streets and looked at the homes he describes. It made me want to go home and reread some of his novels.

One of the wonderful things about Charleston is discovering a bit of their private lives. If you wander off the streets onto the little back alleyways you can glimpse their magnificent hidden gardens located on the sides of the homes. Most of the broad balconies or "piazzas" as they refer to them are located on the sides of the homes for a couple of reasons. People wanted to be able to enjoy their balconies without being on display for the public and so they preferred to have them placed more discreetly on the sides rather than on the front of their homes. Probably more important though was their need to catch any breeze possible during the hot sultry summer months. The homes were design to get as many cross breezes as they could. Often the family would sleep out on the porches during the summer before air conditioning was available.

I peeked through many beautiful wrought iron garden gates to lovely interior garden squares with benches and fountains and well manicured and tended to plants and trees. It doesn't take much imagination to picture oneself reading a book while sipping some cool lemonade or a nice mint juliep or visiting with friends or having a secret rendezvous...

Charleston Cooks

CHARLESTON COOKS!

The best food that I have had on this trip has definitely been in Charleston. Every single meal I ate there was great. My train arrived over an hour late and the train station was located in the boonies in North Charleston. I was going to be sleeping cheap at a hostel in the historic district that I had booked online. Part of the directions to the hostel said that you could take a bus or just call and they would come pick you up. I called and they said, "Oh, no, that's wrong, we never pick people up from the train station or the airport. You have to call a cab."

I went out into the dark night and saw two cabs there that seemed to already be taken. I asked the drivers if I needed to call for a taxi or if others would come by. One of the cab drivers asked me where I wanted to go and when I told her she said that she was going in that direction and could give me a lift. She was off duty and picking up a friend. I very gratefully accepted and she said that I probably would have been waiting there for an hour or two because it was a Saturday night. I was even more thankful when I heard that info. She didn't turn her meter on so I just gave her a big tip when she dropped me off. She really seemed like a guardian angel to me that night.

My hostel was located in the historic district which was good, but it was the scary "hood" part on the edge of the district. Definitely not the kind of place where I would be comfortable walking around by myself. There was one other woman in my room when I arrived. She was complaining about being sunburned from laying out at the beach all day long. It hadn't occurred to me that the beach was an option for visitors in Charleston but there lots of islands with beaches all around.

My roommates name was Karen and she was from New Jersey. It was 9:00 p.m. and neither of us had had dinner and there was no place nearby and I didn't feel like venturing out in the dark. She had a car and said she was going downtown for dinner and invited me to go along with her. She talked non stop and when we pulled out of the parking lot she lit up a cigarette and a small screw bottle of cheap red wine and proceeded to drink and smoke on our drive. That was a first for me. Perhaps drinking while driving is legal in the south. It was too late to back out so I just prayed that she was a safe driver.

We had trouble finding parking but eventually went into a parking lot and then walked over to a popular seafood restaurant named AW SHUCKS. We both order crab cakes and bacon wrapped stuffed shrimp that came with a baked potato and green beans. The shrimp and crab cakes were great, tons of flavor and very fresh. Afterwards we wandered around among the throngs of young people out at the bars and clubs. It was a very lively scene and everyone seemed to be enjoying the nice weather.

The next morning I got up and pulled out the tourist map I had picked up the night before and figured out which direction I need to go to head to the visitors' center. I chose to go down one block and then over 10 block or so to a main street. Supposedly there were buses running all over town and my street was one way the wrong way. I wasn't sure where the bus stop was located so I just started walking. I approached a brick building that had a mural drawn on the side saying "The Hominy Grill, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner" and there were several cars in the parking lot and a bunch of people waiting in front for it to open. The crowd of locals told me it would be a good place for breakfast. When the doors opened 10 minutes later at 9:00 a.m. there were about 25 of us ready to head on in. Apparently Rachel Ray had been here with her TV show and it had long been a local favorite. In the bathroom there was a picture of Anthony Hopkins with two of the workers/owners.

I ordered one of the specials; Griddled corn cakes with poached eggs topped with she-crab gravy. It was a savory southern breakfast. In fact this place was so good that I went back the next morning and had a different special that was even better: sweet potato pecan pancakes and spicy homemade sausages. The restaurant was off the beaten path and you would have to know about it to find your way there, unless you are lucky like me and just happen to be walking by in the sketchy part of town.

For a late lunch I went to a cooking class that was named "Taste of Low-Country Cooking" taught by a very charming young chef with a sweet southern accent at a local kitchenware store called Charleston Cooks! The menu was a local tripper fish simply sauteed with a tomato-basil beurre-blanc sauce over fried cheddar-bacon-scallion grits. For dessert he made a famous lace -type cookie called "benne cookies", benne being a gullah (the local name for slaves) name for sesame seeds. He topped the cookies with vanilla ice cream and homemade bourbon carmel sauce. I asked him for restaurant recommendations and he said that two of the places he had worked at that he really liked were High Cotton and S.N.O.B. which stands for slightly North of Broad (the street that defines the really old money/families from the rest of society.

I went to High Cotton for dinner and realized that this was the restaurant that my brother Stephen and I had gone to when we went down to Charleston last year. We had both enjoyed the food and the live jazz. I ended up being seated at the same table we had been at before. I order the prix fixe menu and a glass of wine. The meal started out with a local favorite, a she-crab soup. It is a creamy delight with large pieces of succulent crab and topped with colorful roe. A "salad" followed comprised of another local delicacy, hearts of palm, layered with big shrimps, lobster and crab meat and micro greens tossed in a lemony dressing. I could have gone home a very happy woman right then, but there was more magic coming out of the kitchen. The main course was a southern vegetable and duck perleau. I didn't quite know what to expect and was very pleased when I saw it arrive. There was an amazingly flavorful rice dish bursting with butter beans, okra, spicy andouille sausage and tender duck. Lying on top of this rice was a duck leg and thigh with a tomato relish and grilled scallions. I am a big duck fan and this was about the best duck I have ever had. (The foie gras farm in Provence was awfully good too!) To finish off this meal was a huge pecan praline souffle with house-made chocolate sauce. Hands down, the best souffle I have ever had, Paris included. In fact a French man was dining next to me and when he saw it he immediately ordered one to share with his date. I wish that I had had someone to share it with too because I was too full to eat more than a third of it. But I didn't want to feel sick by eating too much and ruining my memory of such a fabulous meal.

I decided that some walking would definitely be in order and I signed up for a ghost tour. It was okay and the guide had some good stories but I suspect she is much better doing the history walks. The city doesn't allow groups to go on residential street after 6:00 p.m. for tours in order to give privacy for the locals. Fair enough, but if you can't go in the little back alleys and around the grand old homes you end up limited to fairly innocuous spaces that aren't overly suited to ghost tours. We did get to go in one graveyard which was pretty cool. I found myself once again in the position of trying to find a safe way home. I tried for a few minutes to catch a cab and then walked over to a pedi-cab (a guy who has a 'carriage seat' attached to his bicycle) and asked if he knew a better place to try to catch a cab. He said it was pretty hard to get one and asked where I was going. He too asked why I wanted to go to Spring Street and I told him there was a youth hostel there. He said he could take me and I climbed into the seat. It was fun and he chatted the whole way telling me how he was a 4 the year junior at the College of Charleston and that he had lived over in my neighborhood when he first arrived. I once again arrived home safely and felt like God was watching over me and taking care that I got to my destination intact.

HISTORICAL BOSTON

HISTORICAL BOSTON

It seems impossible to go more than a few steps in Boston without running into something historical. Of course I was visiting the downtown "historical" part of Boston; I'm sure there are sections of the city that aren't inundated with plaques and signs marking the importance of this building or church or bench or spot.

It is amazing not only that so much of our history during the Revolutionary War period was centered in this area, but that every moment and place seem to be recorded and cherished and made available for the viewing public. In elementary school there were a couple of movies that we saw each year in the auditorium, one of which was Johnny Tremain. Paul Revere played a big part in the movie as well and we came up with a special hand sign that mimicked him after an incident where he spilled some hot melted lead and accidently stuck his hand in it, scorching himself and welding his fingers on one hand together. (Isn't it wonderful what kids will take away from a history lesson.)

My friends Ian and Mindy Noyes live in the Boston area with their son Jacob. They recently moved to Ipswich , a town about 45 minutes north of Boston on the coast serviced by the commuter rail into Boston. I stayed there with them and also with Ian's parents who were in town visiting. Their house was out on a dirt road through some beautiful trees and on a marsh. The view was stunning and no other homes were visible, just the marsh grasses and the river and water coming up in high tide and the islands dotting the coast. It felt dreamily idyllic.

Shortly after I arrived, Ian and Mindy wanted to have one more swim in the river before it got too cold. They donned their swim suits and life jackets and we all walked out along the path to the river's edge. Ian and Mindy did a running jump and plunged into the cold water. Jacob followed a bit later. I decided not to take the plunge and manned the video camera for them instead. It was great to reconnect with Ian and Mindy and see how their lives were unfolding. It felt good to be in a home after being on the train, in hostels and bed and breakfasts for several weeks. I appreciated their hospitality so much.

I took the commuter rail into Boston the next day even though it was raining. Little did I know at that point how many days the rain would last. I got off at the station and looked around for a stand with city maps but didn't find any. I decided to just start walking out of the terminal and see where I would end up. I don't know why I thought I could do this since I hadn't even looked at a map to see where the train station was and where everything else was located. But, by the grace of God, I found myself crossing a plaza that seemed somewhat familiar from when I went there for a couple of days 4 years ago on a family vacation on the way out to Cape Cod.

I stopped in a coffee shop for a little caffeine boost, purposefully avoiding the Dunkin Donuts shops that were located on every block. I knew that I was close to Fanueil Hall and around the next corner I spotted a Tourist Information office. It kind of feels like you hit the jackpot when you are aimlessly wandering around without a clue and then you find that. I grabbed a map and some brochures and headed over to Quincy Market and Fanueil Hall which is the epicenter for people visiting Boston. I enjoyed wandering through those buildings, looking at the shops and fabulous food stands as it poured outside. It reminded me of the last time I was there with my family and we were caught in a really bad thunderstorm and decided to wait it out in there.

I purchased a ticket for the on/off tour buses which circle historical Boston and point out the sights and let you get off and explore on your own. The North Church, Paul Revere Square and house and part of the Freedom Trail are all located in the Italian end of town and so there are lots of great Italian restaurants and cafes to dine or hang out in. I really liked one Catholic church named St. Stephen's. It was located fairly near the famous North Church where Paul Revere hung the lanterns to alert the others to the British invasion route and consequently now was crowded with tourists. St Stephen's was empty when I went in and it felt so peaceful and soothing with its all white interior and graceful balconies. I took advantage of the solitude and quiet and just sat there meditating for awhile before returning to the rain and tourists outside.

I hopped back on the bus and went over to the port where "Old Ironsides" and the historical/nautical museum are located. The rain increased to a frenetic downpour as I stepped onto the ship and attempted to not fall on my face walking around the deck. One of the officers on deck said they usually close it down when it is raining this hard but they hadn't that day. The museum connected with the ship was really good, especially for kids. I would recommend it as a fun part of the Freedom Trail if you are in Boston with children.

I just love the architecture in Boston. I have always been drawn to brick buildings and here almost everything is made from brick. I enjoyed just walking around Boston and looking at the buildings and the streets and park benches. It was nice to stroll around Boston Commons as well and see the Park Street Church that many of my friends have attended. My bus pass included a visit to the aquarium so I went there at the end of the tour. Unfortunately it seemed like most of Boston had the same idea. The place was so packed on this rainy day that I left pretty quickly. Also, when you have the Monterey Bay Aquarium as a standard, it is hard for most other aquariums to match up.

The next day that I went into Boston I headed for Harvard University. My father went to Harvard Law School shortly after he and my mom were married. They have always spoken of their 3 years there as a very special time in their lives. They made lifelong friends, many of whom moved back out west with them, and they love to tell stories about their penny-pinching days and walking in the snow or digging their car out of snow drifts... It was fun to picture them on the campus or in town as I walked around. I met up with a friend from Berkeley in Harvard Square at the Coop Bookstore. It is a fabulous bookstore and I couldn't resist buying one small book. I could have hung out there all day. Gordon and I had coffee and dessert at the Charles Hotel and then walked along the Charles River and then through campus to the Peabody museum where he said good-bye and I went in to see the glass flowers and geology/gems exhibits. I think that I would have liked going to college at Harvard, but since they didn't accept me I went to Cal where I was wanted. I called my parents from Harvard Square and told them I was at Harvard and they said,"Oh, so they finally let you in?" Very sweet of them...

DC in Daylight

DAYLIGHT DC

I slept in a bit after my late night tour of Washington. For my stay here in DC, I upgraded from staying in a hostel to checking into a hotel (what a difference that one little letter 's' can make) that was only a 10 minute walk from the White House. It feels amazing to be able to just take a short walk and then be in front of the best known and most visited address in the US. I am so used to seeing the White House and many of other DC buildings in movies or on TV that it feels kind of strange that they exist in real life too and that you can just walk up to them. Of course there are strong fences and lots of police to make sure you don't get too close to George W.

It finally felt like Autumn. It is the first time on my trip that the weather has felt that way. I thought most of the time I would be hitting the wonderful fall weather that I love: cool crisp air, some windy gusts and leaves blowing around. Instead it has either been hot or wet or both.

I strolled down to the White House and checked it out from both sides before moving on down to the mall and the Washington monument. The flags circling the base were flapping in the breeze and tourists were milling about. There was a sign posted that all the tickets for a tour and going up the tower were sold out. I decided to visit one of the Smithsonian museums. All of the Smithsonian museum are free and are wonderfully done. I chose to go first to the national Museum of American History. I enjoyed the exhibits about the First Ladies, the Presidents and Science and American Culture. I was bummed that the exhibit on popular culture was closed because I really was interested in that one. All they had on display that you could see were the ruby shoes from Wizard of Oz, Jerry Seinfeld's "puffy shirt" and Kermit the frog. Fun, but very limited. I also visited the Natural History Museum which has great displays of animals and is very big on pushing Evolution throughout the museum, complete with a movie about it.

After the museum I was ready to get some more of that fresh fall air. It still felt like autumn but dark gray clouds were quickly filling up the sky. I continued to walk down to the Capitol building and amused myself by watching the other tourists. Washington is a great city to walk in, but there is a fair amount of distance between the sights. There were quite a few families where some of the kids were dragging their feet in the dirt and had the look on their faces that said that they were maxed out and just wanted to be home playing a video game or something along those lines. I think because there is so much open space you can see how far things are away and that makes it more difficult psychologically for those kids. In New York there are so many buildings to distract you and block your vision, that you have no sense of the distance. I remember being in DC as a 12 year old during the hot and muggy summertime and trying to scout out the ice cream carts so I could stop and get a popsicle to cool down. I have been one of those foot-dragging kids.

The next day I decided to head over to Georgetown. It was sunny and warm and I got off the bus and walked through the downtown shopping district. There are fabulous shops and restaurants along M Street. I walked down to the C&O Canal and followed the footpath for quite awhile. After lunch at a cute little cafe I decided to take a river cruise on a small river boat. The group that de- boarded was comprised of about 15 people but on my tour there was only one other guy besides the boat operator. It was fun to have a private tour and our guide knew a lot of interesting DC history and trivia. He started off the cruise by playing the theme song to Gilligan's Island (just a 3 hour tour, a 3 hour tour) and I wondered if I ought to hop off and swim back to shore. Luckily this cruise lasted precisely the 50 minutes it was supposed to.

I wanted to see Georgetown University so following the cruise I walked down along the canal past a lovely spot with trellises and park benches in honor of Francis Scott Key. I climbed up 4 long steep flights of stairs to the level where Georgetown University sits. There was a massive stone building that is one of their main halls. Students were coming and going between classes and sitting on the lawn and benches reading and chatting with friends.

I had picked up a pamphlet in the visitor's center which had a self guided tour of the "Kennedy's in Georgetown." I pulled it out and located the house that John bought Jackie when John-John was born and the church they attended and the house he lived in when they first met. Other people live in those houses now and I was the only tourist around so it was quite easy to imagine them living their lives there in a normal sort of way. Of course that would have to be before he was the president and all that jazz.

I was itching to go to a movie so I stopped at the Georgetown movie theater and saw the movie Elizabethtown. The bus makes a stop right in front of the theater so I felt that I could get home safely afterwards, which I did. It felt good to do something "normal" like seeing a movie. I really enjoyed Washington and I could have spent a lot more time in the museums in DC but I only can do so many hours a day in museums. I love that they are free of charge here, my only complaint is that they close at 5:00 p.m. I know that there are tons of politicians and government workers here but as a tourist it is actually quite easy to be oblivious to them. I guess that I just chose to see the amazing monuments and buildings and museums and not really pay any attention to the "real" business of Washington.

DC at Night

GOD BLESS AMERICA

There isn't anything much sweeter than a warm balmy evening after 8 days of constant downpours. Washington DC felt magical and spacious in the early evening as I began another "3 Hour Tour" at 6:30 p.m. There was a beautiful pink and orange sunset coloring the sky as a warm breeze softly blew through the air. No need for an umbrella or even a jacket really.

I have to say that there is nothing like a little deprivation to make one appreciate the simple things in life. The absence of rain felt glorious. It had only been a week since I saw the sun but it felt like an eternity. In New York the doorman at Maureen's apartment was making jokes about building an ark because it felt like we might actually need one with the quantity of raining coming down. In reality it was just eight days of consecutive rain which isn't that big of a deal. There are many comforts of home which I normally take for granted but while I am on the road I see in a different light. My own space and bed and kitchen for example seem almost too good to be true.

I boarded the bus tour that was going to take us around to all of the monuments and important sights in town. Washington has made the effort to showcase their monuments and architecture at night by lighting them and keeping them open for visitors. I wanted to see them but didn't want to walk around by myself in the dark so I joined up with this bus tour.

It got off to a bit of a slow start because they had over booked it and needed to switch to a larger bus. The bus driver told about the different government buildings as we drove past them and then we stopped at almost all of the monuments. Our first stop was at the White House but it was hard to see too much, especially at night. The next stop was the newly finished World War 11 monument. It is really beautiful in its design and I was surprised to find myself crying. It was incredibly moving to think of all of the people who sacrificed their lives for the sake of our country and freedom for us and for those around the world. It didn't feel heavy and burdensome, rather it felt deep and rich and full of life and promise.

As we journyed from monument to monument I repeatedly got choked up and tears poured out of my eyes. I felt proud to an American and to be part of this country. Rarely have I felt that in my adult life. Generally I am fairly disgusted with politics and ashamed of many of the policies and greediness and excesses of our country. I think that Washington pays tribute really well to the people and times that we as Americans are proud of. As a nation we have done great some things and have had wonderful inspiring leaders and we need to remember that and be encouraged to see how we can be and do that in the present and in the future.

In many of the memorials there are quotes of speeches and famous documents that are amazingly eloquent and powerful and sound. Quite a difference from much of what we tend to hear these days. I was awed as I stood there amongst the other visitors looking up at the beautiful stone walls and columns and domes and thinking about our past.

The moon was bright and full and I wanted to be able to capture it on my camera but there was no way to catch the bright glow it cast over the city. The Washington Memorial rose tall and gleaming in the night sky and it begged to be photographed but it too was elusive. The reflecting pond was lovely in the moonlight but was too dark to catch on film. I had to content myself with looking deeply at it all and storing it my memory. (I did get some photos but none of them manage to convey how it felt to be there looking at it in person.)

The FDR memorial was comprised of stone blocks and waterfalls separating the space into different "rooms" which wound their way through the years of his administration and the challenging times of our nation. It was thoughtful and creative and informative and beautiful.

I'm not sure why, but our "3 Hour Tour" last about 5 1/2 hours and I didn't arrive home until almost midnight. Considering that I had been up and walking in Central Park that morning before 7:00 a.m. it felt like a long day. But what a great way to see our nation's capitol.

Umbrella, Umbrella

UMBRELLA, UMBRELLA

To quote the New York Times article regarding the street vendors, "you can say it over and over 'umbrella, umbrella, umbrella' and it sounds like a song or you can say it drawn out 'um-brell-a' and it sounds like a prayer," which ever way you choose, you will get customers. A t least for the first few days of unrelenting downpour, after that everyone in New York has an umbrella if they have gone outside in the past week.

My $5 umbrella got used up in the 4 days I was in New York. It has poured non-stop for 8 days. Over 14 inches of rain at Central Park in October, beating out the former record of 13.5" and it is only the 15th. This morning the rain had stopped but of course I am on my way out of town. I did squeeze in a 7:00 a.m. stroll in Central Park with my friend Maureen and her 16 month old son TJ. He was pretty excited to actually get to run around outside and covered a lot more distance than usual.

My sojourn here in New York was a test of positive thinking and attitude. It would have been really easy to just sulk and complain as I got soaked again and again. I was determined to see NY despite the weather. I bought tickets to ride the double decker tour buses and sat covered by a thin white plastic poncho that read "Grey line Tours" on top of the bus as it poured. I sat there until I couldn't take it anymore and then went down stairs where the windows were so steamed up you couldn't see out of them. Every time the bus lurched to a stop (every half block at least) a waterfall of rainwater poured down the stairwell onto the floor of the bus and then streamed like a river under the seats, soaking anybody's shoes that were on the floor. My feet are stained black and blue from my shoes and socks.

Eventually I would tire of the bus and get off wherever and start walking while trying to keep my cheap umbrella from turning inside out in the gusts of wind. I did make it to a matinee of THE PRODUCERS which I thoroughly enjoyed. Likewise the MOMA and the Met were wonderful. I met Maureen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art yesterday evening for a drink and then wandered around the museum for a couple of hours. There is a wonderful Rodin exhibit and everything from Islander Art to 18th Century furniture to modern art. The building itself is lovely, especially the lobby which we looked down upon from the balcony as we sipped our drinks and listened to the string quartet. It was a fabulous "new York" thing to do.

Four days ago I had no real idea how New York was laid out and what was where. I now feel like I have a pretty good grasp of that and am capable of taking the subway or buses most anywhere in Manhattan. There's nothing like learning from your mistakes. Manhattan is fairly easy to figure out once you get oriented and know Uptown from Downtown and East of 5th Ave from the West side.

Part of my bus pass included a visit to the top of the Empire State Building. I decided to give it a go yesterday and made my way over there. I went inside and saw a sign which said "0 visibility". The up side was that there was no line. I decided to do the 'Skyway Ride", a virtual tour of New York. I figured it was one way to see something in the rain. We sat down in seats and then a bar came down over our laps and the movie began. It was narrated by Kevin Bacon and the seats moved so that we felt like we were flying around New York. Afterwards we were lead to the elevators to go to the observation deck. We were not on the ground floor since we had just seen the movie and there was construction going on by the elevators on our floor. The walls were torn out and it looked like we were in a condemned building. On the 80th floor we got out and transfered elevators to go up to the observation deck on the 86th floor. We got out and looked into a cloud. Zero percent visibility was completely accurate. All-in-all a little less than the ideal experience. But at least I can say that I have been there.

Some other highlights from NY were having dinner with Maureen two nights in row and eating very tasty food, seeing a movie with her (just like old times), feeling the energy of New York, going to Evensong at St Thomas' sung by a boys and men choir, good bagels, great deli food, fabulous museums, abundant public transit, spending time with Maureen, Trey and TJ and meeting a nice subway worker when I first arrived in Penn Station who helped me get a subway ticket and gave me correct directions to my destination.

I will write more about New York a little later. It has been harder to get internet access than I thought it would, so I ahven't been able to post very much. More soon to follow...

COVERED BRIDGES AND WATERFALLS

I am a bit behind in my journaling at this point. I haven't had a chance to write about some of my other experiences in Montreal or of my time in Quebec. Hopefully I will be able to catch up soon. Here is an entry about one of my days in Vermont.

COVERED BRIDGES AND WATERFALLS

I spent the day following a driving route starting at my Bed and Breakfast in Waterbury, Vermont (home of Ben and Jerry's Ice Cream) and by the grace of God, ending there as well, 7 hours later, with just enough light left in the sky for me to see the road.

It was supposed to be a 3 hour tour. But we all know that "3 Hour Tours" rarely last 3 hours only. In all fairness to the creator of the tour guide, it did say that that was the DRIVING time, not how long it would take to really do it if you want to get out of the car and walk around and take in all of the gorgeous scenery. I would highly recommend this loop through Vermont but make sure you have plenty of time, film (or batteries and memory card) and a navigator or GPS.

It might have taken me a wee bit longer because I missed a lot of turns and had to backtrack to the correct road. But, it is difficult to read directions from a piece of paper while driving on winding country roads. AND as I found out later, there are more unpaved roads than paved ones in Vermont. (The locals like it that way, in fact they don't really want any of them paved.) So I would drive right past a "road" not realizing that it was a ROAD and not just a wide foot path. "Towns" also might just be a gas station and one other building. That through me for a loop a couple of times. One needs a different mindset to survive around here.

I was a little disappointed when I arrived in Vermont yesterday morning. I had heard that the leaves were late in changing this year because the weather has been so warm, but I was really hoping that they would change overnight just for me. So yesterday I was underwhelmed. I had picture perfect images in my head of what it was going to look and feel like and it didn't quite hit the mark. I think that that is what I get for seeing movies which always show the perfect days of autumn in New England. In reality you have about a 2 week window when it hits its peak and if you miss it you are out of luck. And Mother Nature doesn't always perform her wonders according to the calendar.

When I woke up this morning it seems that my wish was granted, at least somewhat, overnight. It was amazing the difference in color today. Trees in California just don't change that quickly, rather it seems like it takes them months to change color, if they are inclined to do so. It still will be another week until they are at their peak, but I am not going to complain, at least about this, anymore.

The roads wound through lovely hills and forests (over hill and over dale) and in and out of picturesque little towns of quaint white churches with steeples pointing skyward and general stores, inns, restaurants and boutique craft shops. Most of the towns had some beautiful brick buildings and seemed pretty similiar to one another unless they had a college or university or some other unique business to distinguish them from the others. I found myself wondering how long I could be in one of those towns before I got stir crazy. Coming from Berkeley and growing up in LA makes living in places like these somewhat unimaginable. They all look quite idyllic but probably not for me in the long run, though I can see how the locals feel that this is the best place on earth. Between the mountains and trees and rivers and snow in the winter there is so much natural beauty to bask in. Although I enjoyed the day very much, I didn't have any thoughts of wanting to move out here. My friends and family at home can rest in peace that I haven't been anywhere that I have wanted to move to yet.

The drive took me through a bunch of covered bridges and to several waterfalls. My favorite waterfalls was called Texas Falls. The water poured down through a short narrow gorge and coursed over boulders and rocks. There were paths alongside the river under the canopy of golden and green leaves which were gently falling in the breeze. It wasn't a huge waterfall (especially after I have seen the ones in Yosemite at the height of their flow this spring) but it was very tranquil and harmonious. There were only a few people wandering the paths and I felt like I was able to just be in the moment. I wish that I could have stayed there longer but it was getting late and I didn't want to try to navigate these roads in the dark. All in all, a very nice day.

Just a side note, one of the best things that I have had to eat here was a homemade raspberry-oatmeal bar which I bought at a gas station. Yes, a gas station. In many of the little markets at the gas stations there is a nice variety of gourmet local products and very good sandwich delis and some homemade treats. You can still by packaged junk like chips and candy or you can get some really good, simple local food.

Bateau Mouche aka harbor boat cruise

I am a bit of a sucker for boat cruises, anything on the water draws me in. Though I just read about those Canadians who drowned on a boat cruise in the Northwest, maybe I should think twice before jumping on board..,.

It has been sunny and warm in Montreal and Quebec- perfect weather for a harbor cruise. It was really wonderful to be out on the St. Laurence River. The guide was very informative, pointing out everything worth mentioning (in both French and English) and I enjoyed taking pictures. I seem to have become quite addicted to my little digital camera. I am taking way more pictures than I thought that I would. I was warned by other people that once you get a digital camera you just can't stop yourself, and sure enough, I totally succommed. Since I have my laptop with me I can keep downloading them and clearing my memory card and taking more. Here are a few from the cruise.

The big sphere was a biosphere for the World's Fair but the glass was destoyed in a fire at one point. The still use it without the glass as a base for climate/ weather/enviroment stuff.

The ferris wheel was also for the fair and now is owned by Six Flags (of course).

The funny building which lookes like it was made of lots of box shaped rooms was designed by a 23 year old architecture student and they are popular condos now.

The Human Chain

The other morning when I was walking through Old Town Montreal I saw a huge line of people passing heavy boxes of food down the row. They were all wearing matching white t-shirts that said something in French and the name Deloitte. Apparently they were gathering food for an organization sponsored by Deloitte for AID. I wasn't sure if it was for Iraq or some place else. It was a very cool thing to come across in what is mostly a place for tourists.

Later on in the day when I was walking in the park area along the water front I saw that they had set up a street fair with a live band and booths for people to interact with. I am glad that I was able to see them in action.